French Jet and Black Celluloid Mourning Hair Comb
Ref: AN-1301-005
This handsome comb may well have been worn for mourning, which was an important social custom in the Victorian and Edwardian eras. Etiquette forbad any personal ornaments save those from dull dark colours. The material of choice was Whitby jet, but French jet, dyed horn and black celluloid were also used.
French jet is a glittering form of black glass which has nothing to do with France, but was produced mainly in Bohemia, now part of modern Czechoslovakia, in the late 19th and early 20th century when it was extremely popular for jewellery making. In this comb it is incorporated in the form of black “rhinestones” which are set into a frame of black celluloid. The beautiful asymmetric design has a lively sense of movement and shows some Art Nouveau influence.
This comb is of the type known as a Spanish or mantilla comb because it resembles the traditional ornaments worn by Spanish ladies with their native dress. These tall mantilla style headings became popular in the 1870s due to the debut of Bizet’s opera Carmen in 1875. Early performances scandalised audiences but it quickly became one of the most popular operas in the world with a significance fashion influence.
Combs like this were worn as shown in the penultimate picture which is taken from a contemporary Victorian photograph of the 1890s. The final picture shows Queen Alexandra in 1911 in the dress of a widow.
Size: 6 ins h x 4 ins w (15 x 10 cms)
£60.00
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